sábado, 12 de noviembre de 2022

Succulent Christmas Tree Holiday Centerpiece Amazing tips

My DIY succulent topiary tree holiday centerpiece needs less care than a floral arrangement, and will look good for several months (longer, if groomed).

DIY succulent topiary tree holiday centerpiece

MATERIALS

Topiary cone made of sphagnum moss, 12″ tall (including wooden base)
200 floral pins (or paper clips cut in half with wire cutters)
Clippers or scissors for taking cuttings and shortening stems
Chopstick or a Phillips screwdriver for poking holes in moss

Succulent cuttings (these are suggested, but nearly any kind will work):
Crassula ovata ‘Minima” (mini jade), 60
Sedum nussbaumerianum (Coppertone stonecrop), 30
Sedum rubrotinctum ‘Aurora’, 50
Senecio haworthii, 60

Optional:
Lazy susan
Crystal corsage pins (around 50)

Senecio rowleyanus (string of pearls plant), 9′ of strands for garland

Note: Product links are affiliate. 

STEP-BY-STEP

  1. Get cuttings from your garden, potted plants, nursery-grown succulents or online sources. You needn't use the same varieties that I did, but do aim for contrasting colors and textures. Use jade plant (Crassula ovata) as a filler---it's inexpensive and easy to come by. Stay away from blue, blue-gray and lavender succulents because those aren't holiday colors---unless of course that's what you prefer.
  2. Poke holes in the moss. I like to leave a chopstick in the hole so I can find it while I'm selecting the right cutting.
  3. Use larger cuttings around the base, smaller as you go up. I first created a spiral of jade, then filled in with the others. Secure cuttings with floral pins.
  4. I created a garland of string-of-pearls. Resist the temptation to decorate the little tree with vivid ornaments, thereby making it all about them and not about the succulents. I think the crystal corsage pins (second photo below) hit just the right note.

DIY succulent topiary tree holiday centerpiece

Caring for your succulent Christmas tree

Its requirements are similar to those of a succulent wreath: bright but not intense light (rotate occasionally for even exposure), weekly watering (from the top, to evenly moisten the moss), and pinching back if cuttings get leggy.

Can you keep it for next year? I tried to, but the silver senecio is a weak plant, the jade took over, and the sedums got leggy. Plus the florist's pins rust. It's too much trouble, IMHO. The moss cone doesn't cost that much.

 

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lunes, 7 de noviembre de 2022

Protect Your Succulents From Rain, Hail, Frost Amazing tips

Succulents from South Africa and Madagascar (such as aloes, jade and kalanchoes) thrive along the California coast because the climate and weather patterns are similar to those of their native habitats.

The farther you go inland, like my own garden---at 1500 feet in the foothills NE of San Diego---it gets too cold in the winter and too hot in the summer for many soft succulents (as opposed to agaves and cacti).

If I can do it, so can you

Yet without difficulty, I grow hundreds of species---nearly all those I show throughout this site and in my three books on succulents. How? Basically I understand my terraced half-acre's microclimates and position plants accordingly. (And I have a few other tricks up my sleeve.)

Even closer to the coast, you'll contend with changing weather patterns that provide less or more rain than these water-storing plants need.

The info on this page will help you get your chubbies through rainstorms without rotting. Here too are essentials about drainage, frost and hail.

The video above is one of several I've made about winter weather and succulents. Scroll down for other videos you'll find helpful. 

After rainstorms, check for:

-- Succulents with rotted leaves. Remove mushy leaves before rot spreads to the plant's stem or crown. 

-- Drainage issues. If soil stays sodden and muddy areas remain long after a storm, roots may drown. Move plants to higher ground. Install French drains.

-- Slope erosion. Create dams of rocks and diversion channels, and top-dress the soil with gravel or mulch to diffuse the rain's impact.

-- Stagnant water. Check pots, bins and barrels. If they've filled, dump the water before mosquitos find it and breed.

-- Weeds. Wherever soil is exposed to sun, weeds WILL sprout. Get them when small. All too soon they'll have deep roots, go to seed, and look you in the eye.

-- Hail damage. White dots from the impact of tiny bits of ice appear on upper leaves. Spring growth usually covers them.

-- Seepage. Check your home’s basement. Mine used to have an inch or two of standing water whenever the ground became saturated during storms. A few years ago, a friend suggested a simple solution: Coat the concrete blocks that form the basement’s walls with a special paint that prevents seepage. Works great. Any home improvement store carries it.

-- Shop for plants. Now’s a good time to accumulate plants you want to add to your garden. Rain-soaked ground is soft and easy to dig. Early spring is the best time to establish new plants, after all danger of frost has passed (here in Southern CA, mid-March). Plants will take off in spring and don’t have to contend with summer heat while putting down roots. Don't delay; if your garden is like mine, when the soil dries, it becomes hard as concrete.

-- Take photos as what-to-do reminders. When the weather clears, such issues are easy to forget.

The good news: Succulents tend to be opportunistic when it comes to rain. Given adequate drainage and frost protection, they love it!

When Frost Follows

Frost may settle in low-lying areas on cold, clear nights after a storm. If temps are forecast to drop into the low 30sF, cover vulnerable non-native succulents (aloes, aeoniums, crassulas, kalanchoes, euphorbias) with bedsheets.

Better yet, use a lightweight, non-woven fabric ("frost cloth," "floating row cover"). Keep in mind succulents open to the sky are more vulnerable than those along walls or beneath eaves and trees.

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The post Protect Your Succulents From Rain, Hail, Frost appeared first on Debra Lee Baldwin. Copyright © Debra Lee Baldwin.



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viernes, 4 de noviembre de 2022

Success with Stapeliads (Carrion Flowers) Amazing tips

Stapeliads, succulents from South Africa and Arabia, produce some of the most unusual flowers of any in the plant kingdom. These star-shaped blooms use color, texture, and odor to resemble decomposing meat. Your dogs may find them fascinating (mine do). Fingerlike leaves of stapeliads are generally soft, upright and four-angled, with ridged edges. Points along stems are safe to touch.

Orbea variegata

Orbea variegata

"One of the dirty tricks we succulent geeks like to pull is to have someone take a big whiff of the unusual starfish flowers of a stapeliad," Jeff Moore of Solana Succulents nursery says in his book, Soft Succulents. "The plants have opted out of the bee pool and decided to use flies as pollinators, hence the smell of rotting flesh.”

Stapeliads, Jeff adds, “are mostly nice little spineless, often fuzzy collections of small columns, but the attraction is really the diverse array of alien-looking flowers. They even look cool as puffed-up pods a few days before they peel open.”

Stapelia gigantea, photo by roachpk

Stapelia gigantea in bud (scroll down to see the flower)

Below: Orbea lutea takes floral seduction a step further: Black threads on petals dance in the slightest breeze. CLICK to see Orbea lutea in action.

Orbea lutea (yellow carrion flower) Stapeliad

Stapeliad Care and Cultivation

Considering how fascinating they are, it's a wonder stapeliads aren't more widely cultivated. Jeff speculates that they're too equatorial for most collectors, and need to be greenhouse-grown. Here in Southern CA, a handful of species do well as potted plants, and several (notably Stapelia gigantea) survive in garden beds.

Map Eric Gaba Wikimedia Commons user Sting

Map of region where stapeliads grow: Mainly bordering the Red Sea

  • Water: As with most succulents, keep soil barely moist. Water once every week or so in summer; less in fall and winter depending on the weather; and minimally in winter. Protect from soaking rainstorms. Stapeliad collector Jen Greene advises in her article for the San Diego Cactus & Succulent Society newsletter: “Water when stems start to wrinkle and shrink or droop. It’s easier to rehydrate the plant than to save it from rot.”
  • Flowers: Jen also applies half-strength fertilizer to encourage prolific blooms. She uses dilute fish emulsion, which she says smells worse than the flowers! The Henry Shaw C&SS advises, “for maximum floral display, repot frequently. Flowers appear only on newer stems, so older stems can be removed without losing flowering potential.”
  • Propagation: Take cuttings in spring as the weather warms. They’ll produce roots when laid flat on succulent soil. Jen keeps soil damp so it doesn’t turn “into dust until the cutting has firmly rooted.” She wiggles it to check; a rooted cutting will feel like it has “grabbed-on.”
  • Soil should drain exceptionally well. Use a 30-30-30 blend of cactus mix, coarse sand (like decomposed granite) and pumice.
  • Pests and problems: Main enemies of stapeliads are mealy bugs and black rot. If you see any patches of the latter, remove them immediately. Drench the plant with fungicide and repot in fresh soil.

Stapeliads to get you started

Most stapeliads have a growth spurt in late fall and early winter, which also is when they bloom---and IMHO, the flowers are the main reason to grow them. Shown here are readily available varieties, some of which I grow in my own garden (Southern CA Zone 9B). These are, however, a mere fraction of the species that exist (and tend to be more finicky).

Many thanks for the use of their photos: collectors Pat Roach and Rich ZehMountain Crest Gardens nursery, and newsletter subscriber Ray Burge. 

Hoodia gordonii (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Hoodia gordonii

Hoodia gordonii: Native to arid habitats in South Africa and Namibia, this succulent has long been used by indigenous peoples of South Africa to assuage hunger pangs on Kalahari hunting trips. Because of extreme interest in the genus as an appetite suppressant, trade is restricted.

Hoodia parviflora Rich Zeh photo

Hoodia parviflora

Hoodia parviflora: This largest species of Hoodia  can grow to the size of a tree — as tall as 6 or 7 feet. Its small maroon flowers are known for their particularly obnoxious smell.

Huernia kennedyana

Huernia kennedyana

Huernia kennedyana: It's known as the "Humpty Dumpty" huernia for its egg-shaped (globose) stems. Dark red indicates summer stress; stems will revert to green in winter. Tiger-striped flowers are about an inch in diameter.

Huernia longituba (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Huernia longituba

Huernia longituba: The species name means---no surprise---"long-tubed," and refers to the plants' elongated, bell-shaped blossoms. Native to Botswana. Btw, those dots are bumps (tubercles).

Huernia mccoyi MCG

Huernia mccoyi

Huernia mccoyi: One of the easier stapeliads to grow, it also flowers profusely. Blooms, which form near its base, are five-pointed funnels. Atypical of stapeliads, this one is odorless.

Huernia procumbens, photo by roachpk

Huernia procumbens

Huernia procumbens: Produces large, sea-star-like, pale yellow flowers with a raised burgundy ring at their centers. "Procumbens" refers to the sprawling, trailing habit of the plant's many stems.

Huernia thuretii, photo by roachpk

Huernia thuretii

Huernia thuretii ranges in color from apple green to deep burgundy. It produces pale yellow, multipointed flowers with a recessed center cup.

Huernia thuretii var. primulina: Green stems become tipped with pink and purple when grown in bright sunlight. Yellow flowers sprout from the base to form cupped stars.

Huernia zebrina

Huernia zebrina (Lifesaver plant)

Huernia zebrina has a prominent center ring that resembles a red candy Lifesaver. Surrounding the raised ring, pale yellow petals banded in red form five points---actually ten, if you count the mini-ones midway.

Huernia Zebrina variegata photo by roach-I

Huernia zebrina has a rare variegated form. This one, in the collection of Pat Roach, came from Rojas Succulents in Fallbrook, CA.

 

Orbea sp.(c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Orbea sp.

Orbea sp.: I've included this because it's a charming stapeliad that I'm pretty sure is an orbea. However, its owner (at the C&SS show where I shot it) didn't know the species. It's also found nowhere online. So if you recognize it, would you LMK? Flowers are about an inch across and leaves are stubby.

Orbea variegata, photo by Ray Burge

Orbea variegata

Orbea variegata: This forms a dense cluster of thorny-looking stems. Leathery-petalled, sci-fi flowers up to three inches wide are pale yellow and speckled with burgundy. Note the prominent five-pointed star at center.

Pseudolithos cubiformis (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Pseudolithos cubiformis

Pseudolithos cubiformis: This is one of the craziest-looking plants. Its name means "false stone" and I see why, but it reminds me of Turkish delight candy. Or perhaps a petit-four. It's native to Somalia, and it was only while researching this article I discovered that Pseudolithos is a stapeliad. Those flowers! Btw, I shot this at Petra Crist's Rare Succulents nursery.

Stapelia gigantea (carrion flower) (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Stapelia gigantea 

Stapelia gigantea, with flowers up to 10 inches across, has some of the largest blooms of any succulent. Leaves grow to about 8 inches tall, and are colony-forming. One of the few stapeliads that will grow in the ground in Southwest gardens.

Stapelia grandiflora in the ground

Stapelia grandiflora in a San Diego garden

Stapelia grandiflora has meat-colored petals and fur, the better to persuade flies that it's a putrescent animal.

Stapelia grandiflora w fly larvae (white maggots at center) (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Stapelia grandiflora flower, after flies laid eggs (some of which have hatched) at its center.

 

Stapelia hirsuta (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Stapelia hirsuta

Stapelia hirsuta: I love when a species name is helpfully descriptive. "Hirsute" means "hairy." Only thing is, we've seen hairier stapeliads. This one does, however, a super job resembling carrion.  It's native to the far west of South Africa, where it receives winter rainfall similar to Southern California's.

Stapelia leendertziae (Black bells) photo by roachpk

Stapelia leendertziae (black bells)

Stapelia leendertziae's dark maroon, bell-shaped blooms give the plant the common name "black bells." The flower is an impressive 4 inches in length.

Stapelia paniculata ssp scitula photo by roachpk

Stapelia paniculata ssp. scitula

Stapelia paniculata ssp. scitula, despite looking like furry beef jerky, doesn't smell like other stapeliad flowers---a good thing.

Did you enjoy this excursion into the world of stapeliads? Tell us in the comments below...and do share your own experiences with these weirdly wonderful succulents!

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miércoles, 2 de noviembre de 2022

How Much Light Do Succulents Need? Amazing tips

Are you wondering why a succulent no longer looks as good as when you bought it? If a succulent is otherwise healthy, the first thing to consider is light.

Succulents growing in less than optimal light lose color from their leaves. They'll turn from red, yellow or orange to faded shades of blue or green, and may flatten or stretch (etiolate). On the opposite extreme, when given too much sun, succulents may show beige patches on their leaves or close their rosettes.

At the nursery, don't just look down, look up. When you bring your purchases home, give them the same or similar sun intensity that they're used to. As they settle in and seasons change, they may surprise you. With the benefit of time and room to stretch their roots, it's not unreasonable to expect them to look even better than before.

How Much Light Do Succulents Need?

The answer is "it depends." What's the type of plant? Where do you live? What's the climate like? Even altitude can make a difference. For example,  most haworthias and gasterias prefer shade but can handle some sun along the coast. Many but by no means all cacti are fine in desert sun. As a general rule, the majority of soft-leaved succulents want half a day's sun (in mild climates) and dappled or "bright" shade the rest of the day.

Light is essential to any plant's survival, but too much can damage it. Too little can ruin its shape. Providing optimal light often comes down to observation.

Succulents and light

Above: If these succulents could talk, they'd say, "The light is over there." When succulents lean, it's usually because they're seeking more sun. The phenomenon of growing toward light is "phototropism." Stretched growth in low-light situations is "etiolation."

Not enough sun

It’s not only the location of sunlight that matters, but its intensity. Blooms are especially in need of sunlight in order to mature, and sometimes leaves and entire plants will track the direction of greatest light (it just takes longer to be obvious).
Etiolated echeverias
An echeveria should be symmetrical; if its leaves have elongated or flattened, it’s trying to expose more of its surface area to available light. Inner leaves, where attached to the stem, exhibit a paler color due to low light.
Above: These neglected echeverias have flattened their leaves to expose more surface area to available light. The plants' are coping as best as they can to being indoors. The answer is not to immediately put them outside in full sun, because they'll burn. They need to be "hardened off" to greater sun gradually.

Too much sun

How much light succulents need

Above: This aloe closed its rosette to protect it's vital core from too much sun and resulting dehydration. Pigment similar to that of autumn leaves protects it from burning. The plant is "stressed" -- not necessarily a bad thing. It'll recover when the rains come and sun is not as harsh, just as it would in the wild.

Sunburn on agave

Above: A large agave in my garden has leaves that bend and curve. Stretched cells are vulnerable to sunburn. There's not much I can do to prevent it. I don't like looking at burned patches, so I trim the damaged leaves back to the trunk.

Sunburned aeoniums

Above: Hot, sunny days can come so quickly that garden succulents don't have time to adjust. I probably could have prevented sunburn on these aeoniums if I'd tossed a sheet or (even better) floating row cover on them. They eventually outgrew the damage, but it was evident for months. See "Summer Care for Succulents: Heat and Sun Concerns." 

Sunburned agave recovered

Above: This Agave 'Cream Spike' has recovered from sunburn. You can still see the damage on the outer leaves, but new growth is fine.

How much light succulents need

Above: Here's another sunburn survivor. The damaged tissue is white and the new growth, green.

Aloe maculata fall and spring

Above left: Aloe maculata, late summer; right: same plant in spring.

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Is there a way to make succulents bloom? Yes and no. It partly depends on a plant’s age. It may not be large or mature enough to gear up for reproduction (which is the point of flowers). But there IS something you can do to make a succulent bloom if it’s just sitting there, sulking,…

Kalanchoe luciae (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

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Plenty of sun brings out brilliant reds and yellows in certain succulents, but how much to “stress” the plants varies depending on where you live, the time of year, and the kind of plant. Give aloes and crassulas a bit more heat, sun or cold and less water and richer soil than they really want,…

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jueves, 20 de octubre de 2022

Graptopetalums: Lovely, Easy-Grow Succulents Amazing tips

Of all the succulents I grow, lovely Graptopetalum paraguayense is among the easiest. Here's how I plant, cultivate, propagate, keep them healthy, and show them to advantage. You'll also learn why, in different locations, they look different; and you'll discover intergeneric hybrids such as Graptoveria and Graptosedum.

Echeverias are closely related and showier, but I suspect graptopetalums are tougher. Those in my garden are true survivors. Damaged or withered stems? No problem. No water? The plants hunker down and look the same for months. Frost? It’s gotten down to 17 F, and the graptopetalums were fine. They're also unfazed by hot sun, high heat, and too little light.

Graptopetalum paraguayense, full sun (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Graptopetalum paraguayense turns pinkish yellow in full sun.

Graptopetalums change color and size depending on growing conditions. Those in partial or dappled shade are blue-gray; in full, hot sun, gray-pink; in bright shade to full sun, pinkish yellow. They're smaller (about 2 inches in diameter) when stressed and larger (4 inches) when pampered.

The plants come not from Paraguay, as the species name implies, but Mexico. The common name "ghost plant" references pale, opalescent leaves. These form overlapping, rounded triangles arranged in a Fibonacci spiral.

Graptopetalum in bloom (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Graptopetalum paraguayense in bloom

Graptopetalums bloom in spring, producing dainty sprays of star-shaped flowers on stems that grow toward greatest sun. They're pretty and attract hummingbirds, but cutting them off helps preserve the vitality of the plant (and as cut flowers, they're long-lasting).

Succulent leaf propagation (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Leaves are capable of producing baby plants, roots and all. These are in a nursery flat lined with a paper towel.

Handle with care

Like pachyphytums and large-leaved sedums, graptopetalums have leaves that pop off easily. I wince when I hear that little snap. All parts of the plant are fairly brittle because it wants to break apart and reroot.

No surprise, these are among the easiest succulents to propagate. Leaves that land on the ground below the mother plant may sprout beadlike leaves and threadlike roots from the stem end. These feed off the leaf, draining it of nutrients. As the tiny plant grows, the leaf shrivels. If you have orphan leaves, set them atop soil out of direct sun. Don't bury or water them or they may rot.

Graptopetalum cuttings with aerial roots (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Graptopetalum cuttings sprout aerial roots where leaves once were attached.

Pendant graptopetalums (like sedums, echeverias, crassulas and other stem succulents) may become bearded with roots as they seek soil in which to root. Tuck cuttings into niches in rock walls and let the plants cascade from terraces, pedestal pots and hanging baskets.

Crested graptopetalums (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Crested graptopetalums grow alongside Sedum rubrotinctum (foreground)

Graptopetalums can be used as a ground cover, but like all succulents, they can’t be walked on. As in the photo above, they also may be crested (leaves form tight clusters).

Intergeneric crosses

The genus Graptopetalum can be crossed with Sedum and Echeveria; such hybrids are "intergeneric crosses." Named cultivars exhibit the best of both genera and benefit from hybrid vigor.  Graptopetalum + Echeveria = Graptoveria, and Graptopetalum + Sedum = Graptosedum.

Graptoveria 'Fred Ives' (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Graptoveria 'Fred Ives'

Graptosedum cultivars (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Graptosedum cultivars

Take and start cuttings

As days shorten and summer heat abates, tidy your graptopetalums and other leggy succulents. In autumn, an overgrown plant's exposed inner areas and raw cut branches are less vulnerable to sunburn and desiccation. Use trimmings to start new plants. Don't expect much top growth during winter, but rest assured, roots are spreading and getting ready to fuel spring growth.

 

Lotusland graptopetalum pedestal (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Inspired by this pedestal pot at Lotusland, I planted a 20-inch-tall, vase-shaped terra-cotta pot (below) with graptopetalum cuttings.

 

Graptopetalum cuttings newly planted (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Graptopetalum cuttings newly planted

Here's the cache pot I placed inside the larger pot (above).

In their new home, my graptos will cascade, lengthen and branch. When I tire of them or they get untidy, I'll snip off the tip rosettes and start them over again as cuttings...or pass them along to neighbors and friends.

Btw, after you’ve grown Graptopetalum paraguayense for awhile, you too will have loads of it.

And in the category: "I would if I could"

A Newport Beach, CA, floral designer ornamented his home's Art Nouveau architecture with cast-concrete graptopetalums (below).

Cast concrete graptopetalums (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

Cast-concrete graptopetalums

see my Graptopetalums at lotusland video

Related info on this site

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Euphorbia inermis Fibonacci spiral (c) Debra Lee Baldwin

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The post Graptopetalums: Lovely, Easy-Grow Succulents appeared first on Debra Lee Baldwin. Copyright © Debra Lee Baldwin.



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